Atmospheric Alfama

Our first day - or day and a half - did not start off very well. We arrived at the airport in good time only to discover that our flight would be three hours late departing. Therefore, we would have to spend six hours at the airport before we could leave. Still, we had made no set plans for the next day until the evening so we had the luxury of time. When we did finally set off, we had a smooth flight, although we both found it impossible to get any rest on the plane.

Operating on about one hour of sleep, we arrived in Lisbon at about noon local time the next day to find the sun shining on a beautiful day.  We made our way by taxi to the Fado Museum where we were greeted by Madalena, a representative of the fellow from whom we have rented our apartment. She guided us up the hill on foot to Alfama House, a small apartment in the oldest part of the city. It is perfect! From our tiny balcony, we can see a view of the narrow streets with laundry hung out to dry from others' balconies. Our neighbours are mainly locals who like to engage in lively conversations (in Portuguese, of course) from balcony to balcony. This setting has the authentic old world feel we were looking for! Our first task was to pick up a few groceries to sustain us in the mornings. That done, after a brief nap, we set out to explore the area.

The view from our apartment

Going up

Alfama district is a hilly warren of narrow streets and staircases. We were always either going up, or going down. I had found a walking tour on the Internet, so we followed it. Our first stop, the Portas do Sol viewpoint was particularly spectacular, with the late afternoon sun lighting up the red tile roofs of Alfama houses and the river Tagus below us. Rounding one corner, we came upon a group of locals who were gathering for some sort of street sing-a-long. Everywhere in the lower part of Alfama, there are restaurants and Fado places looking to lure tourists through their doors. We also saw remnants of the old Jewish quarter, as well as a spectacular, but no longer functioning 19th century fountain. The medieval cathedral looked beautiful in rose coloured light. Bob had lots to photograph, with so much colour everywhere: blue coloured tiles on the buildings, the iconic yellow tram 28, and red tile roofs. We loved our walk!

Still going up.

Looking down from the Portas do Sol viewpoint

A street concert

Bob in action in front of a blue tiled mural

The cathedral, the Se

Based on Trip Advisor, we had made reservations at a tiny restaurant, Sr. Fado of Alfama, for dinner and entertainment. Like the Spanish, the Portuguese eat late, so, although we were quite exhausted from lack of sleep, we arrived ready for a rather late night. In this place, the owner, Duarte Santos, and his wife, Ana Marina, provide the food AND the entertainment, in that order. We chose a delicious seafood stew, the specialty of the house. When dinner had been served to all the guests, at about 10:30, the music began. We both love Fado music, the signature sound of Lisbon. Duarte played the Spanish guitar, another fellow played the Portuguese guitar, while Ana sang. And then others took their turns. Over the course of the next hour and a half, two men and a woman arrived at the restaurant to participate in the concert. It seemed a sort of drop-in karaoke. All part of the charm.

Just after midnight, we, the jet-lagged Canadians in the audience, escaped at intermission. The music would have to resume into the wee hours of the morning without us in attendance.

Seafood stew

Fado concert