Enchanting Evora

Today was devoted to one place, Evora. We chose to spend two nights here, because we had read that this was a place rich in history and culture. We have not been disappointed with our decision.

Breakfast at the Albergaria dos Calvaria is delectable. The owner/chef, Peter, is a transplanted Virginian who offers the very best in local, organic food. Healthy choices, like fruit and yogourt, sit alongside delicious home baked treats. On request, Peter will make pancakes or eggs too. This was a great way to begin our day.

On our walk through town, we first focused on shopping. There is an artisan street in the middle of the old part of town, Rua 5 de Octubro, where we sought out quality Portuguese souvenirs for family members. Mission accomplished, we were ready to see the sights.

The Se

The Cathedral (Se) was our first stop. We visited the church and cloister, but did not climb up the tower - it was too hot for that today. We did ascend to the roof of the cloister, however, where we were able to see over the town. From there, we were just a short distance away from the Temple of Diana, a Roman ruin - lovely!

The Temple of Diana (left); Os Loios church on the right, part of the local Pousada

Descending to a part of the city just outside the walls, we visited the University of Evora. For me, this was a highlight. Unlike the campuses in Coimbra and Salamanca, this one is open to visitors without any charge. The old building is lined with azulejos (tiles), some of which depict the great philosophers. The quadrangle is particularly beautiful, with an intricate facade on one end, and a marble fountain in the middle.

The quadrangle at the University

Largo da Porta de Moura

From there, we circled the city until we arrived at Largo da Porta de Moura, a square with Moorish influences. Since it was siesta time, we stopped for a sandwich in the centre of the town, and a much needed drink. 

Refreshed, we continued our tour of the town. Capela dos Ossos was next, a macabre chapel with walls made up of human bones. This creepy place is part of an otherwise very attractive church, Sao Francisco. Nearby, is Jardim Publico, on the site of the once grandiose Palacio de Dom Manuel. Only a walkway and pavilion remain today, but the garden is very inviting on such a warm day.

Realaxing in Jardim Publico

Detail of Capela dos Ossos

By 4:00, we returned to the Albergia do Calvario to relax with a cold drink. I headed out to the patio where several other guests were gathered. It turns out that two other couples there (who did not know each other) were also from Toronto. All of us live centrally, between Bayview and Avenue Road, and between Lawrence and St. Clair. In conversation, we also discovered we knew people in common. What a small world!

Since the hotel serves light fare, Bob and I were content to stay in this evening, and eat a little less. That will make more room for tomorrow's breakfast.

Meeting folks from home

Some of our light dinner: soup, roasted peppers, bread and cheese.